Natural dyeing research

Ohara Kobu and Mr Hiroykui Shindo were part of a research trip taken in Japan to expand the knowledge of natural dying and sourcing materials from local land.

A large focus of my practice is understanding the sustainability aspect of natural dying and the use of all aspects of the farm to leave zero waste. Rethinking how traditional methods of dyeing and printing can be re-envisioned.

Spending time in Japan with these textile specialists taught me far beyond what i aimed to learn before going. The attention to detail and religiousness in process shows how each part of the creative process is important.

Learning how to treat every fibre of the textile as a piece of art and understanding how to deconstruct and reconstruct creative processes to create beautiful outcomes and new approaches.

indigo dyeing

Indigo dyeing is a traditional dyeing process that involves the use of indigo plants to produce a rich blue color. It has a long history and is widely known for its use in textile dyeing.

Specifically Mr Hiroykui Shindo is a master in indigo dyeing so it was a pleasure and an honour to spend time with him and learn his pearls of wisdom.

Some wisdom of the Indigo dyeing process is as follows.

Traditional Indigo Dyeing Cultures:

Japan (Aizome): Japan is renowned for its traditional indigo dyeing, known as "Aizome." Japanese artisans use a fermentation process with sukumo (fermented indigo leaves) to create deep blue hues seen in various textiles, including kimonos and indigo-dyed fabrics.

West Africa: Countries like Mali and Nigeria have a strong tradition of indigo dyeing. The tie-dye technique called "Adire" in Nigeria involves creating intricate patterns by tying or stitching fabric before dyeing.

Source of Indigo (Aizome):

Indigofera Plants: Aizome, or indigo dyeing, is the traditional Japanese dyeing technique that uses natural indigo extracted from Indigofera plants. Specifically the Indigofera tinctoria.

Other plants, like woad (Isatis tinctoria) in Europe and Polygonum tinctorium in East Asia, have also been used to extract indigo.

Extraction of Indigo Pigment (Sukumo):

Fermentation Process: Indigo is present in the leaves of the indigo plant in a water-insoluble form. To extract the dye, a fermentation process is used. The leaves are soaked in water and allowed to ferment, leading to the transformation of indican (a precursor) into water-soluble indoxyl. When exposed to air, indoxyl oxidizes into insoluble indigo.

Drying: The leaves can then be left outside in the sun after water extraction to dry to increase their potency in colour and prepare them to be crushed and stored for later usage.

Vat Dyeing Technique:

Indigo Vat: Indigo dyeing typically uses a vat dyeing technique. The dye is prepared in a vat, and the fabric is immersed into the vat. The process involves repeated dipping and oxidizing, where the fabric turns from green to blue as it comes into contact with the air.

Characteristics of Indigo Dye:

Natural Blue Color: Indigo dye produces a distinctive and rich blue color. The intensity of the color can vary depending on factors such as the concentration of the dye, the number of dips, and the type of fabric.

Indigo Shibori:

Shibori Techniques: In Japan, the art of shibori involves various resist-dyeing techniques applied before indigo dyeing. These techniques, such as tie-dyeing, folding, and clamping, create intricate and unique patterns on the fabric.

Fixing:

Iron: In Japan the soil it very rich with Iron which is a natural mineral which can be used to fix the indigo colours to the fabric.

Ash: Ash is another mineral which can be used to fix the colours to the fabric and increase the fastness and strength of the colour.

Indigo dyeing, has a rich cultural history and with its sustainable characteristics it continues to captivate artisans, designers and plant enthusiasts. The deep blue hues and intricate patterns created through indigo dyeing techniques contribute to the uniqueness and timeless appeal of indigo-dyed textiles.

Other traditional plants native to japan for natural dyeing

Japan, rich in its own biodiversity has many different plants that provide beautiful and organic colours. As well as a natural mineral soil that helps fix the colours.

In the countryside of Kyoto, Japan, where I went to study there are many traditional natural dyeing techniques have been preserved and passed down through generations. Various plants, minerals, and techniques contribute to the creation of unique and vibrant colors.

Here are some aspects of the natural dyes and colors made in the countryside of Kyoto:

Indigo (Aizome):

Indigofera Plants: Indigo dyeing, known as Aizome, is one of the most iconic and widely practiced natural dyeing techniques in Kyoto.

Sakura (cherry blossom):

Delicate Pink Hues: Sakura (cherry blossom) is used to produce delicate pink hues in natural dyeing. The blossoms are often used to create a soft and subtle color palette, particularly for special occasions.

Kihada (Japanese Elm):

Yellow and Green Colors: Kihada, or Japanese elm, is another plant used for natural dyeing. It imparts yellow and green colors to textiles. The bark and leaves of the Japanese elm contribute to the dyeing process.

Benibana (Safflower):

Red and Pink Hues: Benibana, or safflower, is a plant known for producing red and pink hues. It has been used in traditional dyeing for centuries and holds cultural significance in Japan.

Ai (Japanese Madder):

Earth Tones: Ai, or Japanese madder, is a plant that produces earthy tones, including reds and browns. The roots of the plant are often used in natural dyeing processes to create warm and subdued colors.

Kusaki-zome (Plant Dyes):

Local Plant Sources: In the Kyoto countryside, artisans may utilize a variety of local plant sources for dyeing. This can include leaves, flowers, and roots from plants that are abundant in the region.

Minerals and Mud Dyeing (Dorozome):

Iron-Rich Mud: Dorozome, or mud dyeing, is a traditional technique where iron-rich mud is used to dye fabric. This process creates earthy and subdued colors, adding a unique touch to the natural dyeing repertoire.

Natural dyeing in Kyoto's countryside aligns with sustainable and eco-friendly practices. The use of locally sourced plant materials and traditional techniques fosters a strong connection to the natural environment.

The natural dyeing practices in the countryside of Kyoto contribute to the region's rich textile heritage. The colors produced from these natural materials are not only visually appealing but also deeply rooted in cultural traditions and the beauty of the surrounding landscape.

Natural dyeing process

Natural dyeing is a process that involves using plant-based materials, minerals, or other natural sources to impart color to textiles. The process can vary depending on the type of dye material and the desired color outcome.

Here is a general overview of the natural dyeing process which varies slightly from indigo dyeing process.

Selection of Dye Materials:

Plants, Minerals, or Insects: Natural dye materials can include plant parts (leaves, stems, roots), minerals, or even insects. Common dye sources include indigo, madder, turmeric, onion skins, and many others.

Preparation of Dye Extract:

Chopping or Grinding: Depending on the dye material, it may be chopped, ground, or crushed to expose more surface area and enhance color extraction.

Soaking: The dye material is often soaked in water or another liquid to release the color pigments. This process may take hours or days, allowing the dye to fully infuse into the liquid.

Mordanting (Optional):

Alum, Iron, or Copper: Mordants are substances that help fix the dye to the fabric and improve colorfastness. Common mordants include alum, iron, and copper. Fabrics are often pre-treated with a mordant solution before dyeing.

Preparing the Textile:

Scouring: Raw textiles are scoured to remove natural oils, dirt, and other impurities that might hinder dye absorption. This step involves washing the fabric with mild detergent or alkaline solutions.

Dyeing Process:

Hot or Cold Dye Baths: The fabric is immersed in the prepared dye bath. The temperature of the dye bath can vary – some dyes require hot water, while others work well with cold water.

Dyeing Time: The fabric is left in the dye bath for a specific duration to achieve the desired color intensity. Longer immersion times generally result in deeper colors.

Dye Fixation:

Oxygenation (Indigo): For indigo dyeing, the fabric is often exposed to the air after immersion, which causes the indigo to oxidize and fix onto the fabric. This process may involve multiple dips to achieve the desired color.

Other Natural Colours: Usually for other colours that are not indigo, they tend to be well fixed to the fabric during the dyeing process and therefore do not need much aftercare or treatment. Rinsing well and sometimes using a PH-neutral detergent can be enough.

Rinsing and Washing:

Removing Excess Dye: After dyeing, the fabric is rinsed to remove excess dye. Depending on the dye material, this may involve multiple rinses until the water runs clear.

Washing: The dyed fabric is washed with mild detergent to remove any remaining impurities and to enhance color fastness.

Drying:

Air Drying or Heat Setting: The dyed fabric is allowed to air dry or is heat-set, depending on the specific dye and textile type.

Post-Treatments (Optional):

Modifiers: Some dyers use post-treatments or modifiers to alter or enhance the final color. This can involve using substances like vinegar or baking soda.

Repeating the Process (Optional):

Layering Colors: In some cases, artisans may repeat the dyeing process with different natural dyes or mordants to achieve layered or complex colors.

Experimentation and Artistry:

Artistic Techniques: Natural dyeing often involves experimentation and artistic techniques such as tie-dyeing, shibori, or batik, which can create unique patterns and textures on the fabric.

Natural dyeing is a versatile and creative process that allows for a wide range of colors and effects. The choice of materials, preparation methods, and dyeing techniques contribute to the final appearance of the dyed textiles. Many different results can be produced from one plant.

This process allows for all aspects of the plants to be used and without any chemical interference means that all water used can be released back into nature without having a harmful impact.

The possibility that everything you take can be put back is inspiring goal to reach to be totally self sufficient. I take much inspiration and teachings from this time in Japan and from these masters.

Other dyeing processes used in japan

There are many ways to dye and many different techniques developed in Japan that employ ways of working with textiles in an innovative and artisinal way.

I didn’t have time to learn about each process individually however from my teachers I learns about some different ways of dyeing and different techniques that could be of interest.

Yuzen Dyeing:

Kimono Decoration: Yuzen is a traditional dyeing and decorating technique used specifically for kimono fabrics. It involves applying a rice paste resist to the fabric before dyeing, creating intricate and colorful designs.

Hand-Painting and Stenciling: Yuzen dyeing includes hand-painting and stenciling methods to add detailed and vibrant patterns to the fabric. This technique requires a high level of skill and precision.

Shibori Techniques:

Resist-Dyeing: Shibori refers to various resist-dyeing techniques used in Japan. Artisans employ methods such as tie-dyeing, folding, stitching, and clamping to create intricate patterns on fabric before dyeing with natural dyes.

Wagumi:

Regional Variations: Different regions in Japan have their own traditional dyeing techniques and preferred natural dye sources. For example, Bingata dyeing in Okinawa uses bright colors and intricate patterns.

Katazome:

Usage: Katazome is a stencil dyeing technique used to create repetitive patterns on fabric.

Process: A stencil is made from paper or other materials, and a paste made from rice flour is applied through the stencil onto the fabric. The fabric is then dyed, and the paste acts as a resist.

Sumi-zome (Ink Dyeing):

Usage: Sumi-zome involves dyeing fabric with sumi ink, which is traditionally used in Japanese calligraphy and painting.

Process: Sumi ink is applied to the fabric using brushes or other tools, creating artistic and expressive designs.

Tsutsugaki:

Technique: Tsutsugaki involves applying rice paste directly onto fabric freehand, creating bold and expressive designs.

Usage: Historically used for creating designs on futon covers and other textiles.

Mud Dyeing - Dorozome:

Mud Dyeing Tradition: Dorozome is a traditional Japanese mud dyeing technique. It involves using iron-rich mud to dye fabric, resulting in earthy and subdued colors.

Koke-zome (Moss Dyeing):

Koke-zome involves using moss to create a green dye.

Process:Moss is fermented and used to extract a natural green color. The fabric is then dyed with this moss-derived dye.

These natural dyeing techniques are deeply ingrained in Japanese textile traditions and have been passed down through generations. Each technique contributes to the unique and intricate designs found in traditional Japanese textiles, creating a rich tapestry of colors and patterns.

Press printing:

Technique: Taking plants and pressing them into fabric.

Process: Using plants and leaves with naturally potent colours and using a hammer to press the colour out of the plant and into the fabric. Leaving a relief print behind.

Learnings

It is impossible to say how much I learnt about the process of dyeing and creating interesting colours, techniques and processes.

Particularly inspired by the consistency and driven goal to master all aspects of creating and manipulating a fabric, problem solving, learning and teaching. This intimate experience with Textiles has shaped the way I now perceive materiality and process.

Inclusively the experience of food and generosity, being apart of their homes and being hosted was a really intimate and fulfilling experience. To understand the mentality and curation of lifestyle around their craft was immersive and inspiring in itself.

As well as gaining a lot of knowledge on Natrual Dyeing, spinning and weaving fibres I also gained the invaluable experience of exchanging knowledge without language and simply through the act of craft and a shared interest.

I am endlessly grateful for this experience, the learnings and the life transforming teachings that I will carry with me on my path.